Working side by side, they were planning bigger changes that would lift their restaurant, Shintaku, firmly out of its musty past and into a much more contemporary gastronomic relevance.

Which is fine, as it goes, but wait till you taste what chef-owner Hiro Shintaku, former sommelier at En, does at his new little Davie Street tapas place. Umami takes its name from the term for ...

1. Shiomi, A., Kaneko, T., Nishikawa, K., Tsuchida, A., Isoshima, T., Sato, M., Toyooka, K., Doi, K., Nishikii, H., and Shintaku, H.: "High-throughput mechanical ...